Posts Tagged ‘repair’

Fuller Tool 997-8160 160-Piece Home Repair Kit

Posted:20 August, 2010 by admin
Overall Rating:
 

Total Customer Reviews: (29)
Seller: Amazon
When it comes to small home repairs, most homeowners spend more looking for tools than working on the repair. Stop wasting time and get to work with the Fuller 160-piece Home Repair Kit. This handy multipurpose set contains all the hand tools and accessories you’ll need to tackle everyday home repairs. It includes a nail hammer, 12-foot tape meas[Read More]

Hiring a professional to replace your rollers could cost you around $100 not including the cost of the replacement parts. Below are detailed steps containing all the information you will need to know to replace your patio sliding glass door rollers yourself.

* Before you start, understand that you need to take the sliding glass door out of its frame to work on the rollers. The sliding glass door is heavy. You may need the assistance of another to help you remove the door.

1) Your patio glass door will have two separate glass units. One unit is the door that you slide and the other unit is stationary. First, stand outside your house and look at your sliding glass door. If the stationary unit is between you and the sliding unit you will most likely have to remove the stationary unit so that you can get to the glass sliding unit.

Before you go through the trouble of removing the stationary unit, first try to go inside your house and see if you can remove the sliding unit. Usually you cannot because there is a lip along the bottom of the patio glass door frame (it keeps moisture out of the house) that prevents the sliding glass door from being removed from the inside.

If the rollers on the bottom of the door are difficult to get over the lip, you can adjust them to help you create more room (go down to step 2). If it is not the rollers but the sliding unit?s frame preventing you from pulling the sliding unit out of the door frame, you are going to need to remove the stationary unit first before you can remove the sliding unit.

To remove the stationary unit, you first need to take out your screen door (if you have one). Lift one end of the screen door frame and use a screwdriver to lift the roller on the bottom of the screen door frame off of the track. Do this to both ends of the screen door and your screen door will pull out of the door frame.

The stationary unit is held in place by a metal piece that runs along the bottom of the track from the corner of the stationary unit to the bottom of the side jamb (there is a chance this piece is missing but if you do have one remove it from the track). After you have removed the metal piece, look for screws holding the stationary unit frame in place. After removing all of the screws try pulling the stationary unit out of the door frame. If you are having trouble pulling out the stationary unit, try placing a screwdriver between the stationary unit?s bottom frame and the track it is resting on. Lift up on the screwdriver while you have a helper pull out the stationary unit from the door frame. Be careful not to use too much force with the screwdriver so that you do not damage the door track.

2) You may need to create more room when you attempt to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. To create more room you can adjust the rollers on the bottom of the sliding unit. By turning the adjusting screws on the rollers clockwise the wheels move up into the sliding unit?s frame giving you more room. The adjusting screws are located either at the bottom of the sliding unit?s frame or in the sides of the frame. There is a chance that there are plugs covering the screws.

After you adjust both rollers (one on each side of the sliding unit?s frame) try to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. If the unit is still getting stuck you may need to get someone to help you. Have your helper lift one side of the unit and pull outwards while you try to pry the other side of the unit over the track.

3) To remove the rollers from most sliding unit?s you need to remove the bottom of the sliding unit?s frame. Most likely the screw that holds the roller in place is the same screw that holds the frame together. Remove the screw from both sides of the unit. Then try to remove the bottom piece of the frame off of the sliding unit; you may need to use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood and tap on the bottom of the frame until it comes off of the sliding unit.

Now that you have removed the bottom of the frame you can take a close look at your patio glass door rollers. Remove one of the rollers and match it up with one of the rollers on this page http://www.swisco.com/page/SI/CTGY/patio-glass-rollers-wheels-axles or bring the roller to your local hardware store.

It is a good idea to replace both sliding door rollers at the same time to prevent extra wear-and-tear to one new roller, which will have to work twice as hard when paired with an old roller.

4) After your new rollers come in, replace your old rollers with the new ones. To make it easier to install the sliding unit back into the door frame, adjust the rollers to be all the way up into the frame. Once you have the sliding unit back in the door frame you can adjust the rollers for optimal performance. Keep adjusting the rollers until the door is sliding back and forth easily.

I am part of the third generation of the family business. Our business Swisco supplies and manufactures replacement window and door parts. To be helpful to our customers we have to be very knowledgeable about the parts we sell and how they are installed. Visit our Web site at http://www.Swisco.com

Wall Mounted Solar Lighting

Posted:3 August, 2009 by admin

Solar lighting has joined heating and electrical production as popular solar platforms. Wall mounted solar lighting is a particular niche product that people are turning to in droves.

Wall Mounted Solar Lighting

Solar lighting is the new way to light up your home and property. While you have many choices to illuminate your house, the most economical and ecologically sound way is to use solar power. Even if you don’t want to use solar power to run your entire home, you can still help lower your energy costs and use less non-renewable resources by using wall mounted solar lighting.

When choosing solar lighting for your home, you have a few options. Electric lights may seem like the logical choice, but they can require other modifications to the outside of your house. You may need to run wires or extension cords so that you can power these lights and your electric bill will increase. Battery powered lighting doesn?t need cords, but they can be more expensive and time consuming to maintain. Wall mounted solar lighting is an excellent choice for the homeowner who doesn?t want to have to hassle with wires or expense, or go through the trouble of having to constantly take care of the equipment.

The solar cells built into solar lighting products are strong enough to obtain a charge even on cloudy days, though that charge may be less than what you would get on a sunny day. The solar cell can obtain enough solar energy on a sunny day to run the wall mounted lighting for eight hours at night. Many models also turn on automatically when the sun goes down, making them even better for safety and convenience. The LED bulbs contained within can last for many years without replacement, and using solar energy insures that your energy bill will not increase. Weather resistant materials, which are used in most wall mounted products, also ensure that the lamps will have a long life.

If you are choosing wall mounted solar lighting to beautify your home, or even if you just need them for safety, this is the perfect choice. You can save money while adding value to your home by keeping it lit at night, and you can also feel good about your contribution to helping the environment. Even a small use of solar power cuts down on our dependence on fossil fuels and other resources, so choosing this type of lighting should make you feel good. If nothing else, it will also cut your electric bill and every little bit helps these days.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies.

Repairing Loose Carpet

Posted:3 May, 2009 by admin

When carpeting is installed in a home, it is stretched over your floor onto tack strips which secure it on the sides. Over time with general use and age your carpet will actually stretch out. This will often show itself as wrinkles and loose spots in your carpeting. So how do you repair these wrinkles, is there a way?

Yes, to get rid of these unsightly wrinkles, you need to have your rugs professionally stretched. If your carpet is less than a few years old, you might actually have a labor warranty that will cover the stretching costs. Before you hire anyone, check to see if your carpet is still under this warranty. If not, you will have to pay for the charges out of pocket. Unfortunately stretching is not cheap because it involves quite a bit of work. The technicians will have to move all or most of your furniture out of a room, detach the carpet from the tack strip, cut off the excess carpet and then reattach it to the tack strips. This can take hours. Expect to pay around $3 to $4 per square yard for this service. That makes 900 square feet of carpet cost around $300 to $400 to stretch. Sound expensive? Well it is but it is better than the alternative.

If you do not have your carpeting stretched the problem will only get worse. The carpet will continue to get looser and the wrinkles will get larger and more noticeable. This not only causes the carpet to look bad but it can also shorten the life of your carpeting. Loose rugs wears quicker than properly installed and stretched carpet. As expensive as carpet is today it makes since to get the problem taken care of soon as possible to prevent expensive replacement costs.

If you are not sure what to do, it doesn’t hurt to call a carpet repair service. Most will be happy to give you a free estimate and can give you recommendations as to how you should proceed. Who knows, you may only need one room stretched instead of your whole house. You do not know until you call.

The author of this article, James C operates a carpet resource website. Find local carpet cleaners offering Denver carpet cleaning, Louisville carpet cleaning and Chicago carpet cleaning. Also get information on every aspect of carpeting and rugs.

How To Install A New Toilet In 5 Easy Steps

Posted:10 February, 2009 by admin

If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is quite easy to do and can be completed in an afternoon. However, if you plan to install a toilet in a new location, you will have to extend supply pipes and drainpipes to the desired spot, a job you may want to leave to a plumbing contractor.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers, and hardware for fitting the tank to the bowl. However you might need to buy a few parts. Here is a list of what you need to complete this task:

Parts: Toilet bowl, Toilet tank, Toilet seat, Two 1/4 bolts for bowl to flange, Wax ring, 20 water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection and Tools: Pair of channel pliers, bucket, screw driver.

(Many of these can be ordered online at any DIY website such as DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/plumbing/)

1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4 nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4 bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.

4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put 2 rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, and snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.

Maintenance:

At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning the toilet tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining and use a cloth or brush to clean. Also clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl as well as the 3/4 hole in the bottom of toilet bowl. Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed. Maintaining your new toilet will keep the plumber away and reduce your plumbing bill.

Copyright ? 2005. Bridget Mwape writes for DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/ which features how-to articles and products to help you with your DIY and home improvement projects. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable and this author box (byline) is not edited.

One thousand square feet, fifteen hundred square feet, three thousand square feet?however big your home is, you know it could always be a little bit bigger. Whether you?re in the throes of parenthood and trying to find spaces to stash your kid?s toys, or you?re starting a home business, and you could probably use an extra room or two. One way to get more space is to buy a whole new house. For those of us in the real world, though, a far more economical and practical solution is to finish the basement.

Yes, that creepy, crawly dungeon can be turned into a playroom for your children, a home office for your bustling new business, or an entertainment room for the weekend?s big game. You?ll just need to cover over the cold concrete floors and the gray foundation walls. Then there?s the pipes hanging from the ceiling that you?ll want to hide, and the washer, dryer, and storage boxes that you might want to section off.

OK, maybe this project isn?t sounding so practical or economical anymore. But actually, despite the time and effort that goes into it, finishing your basement is basically easy and cheap?if you know how to go about it the right way. There are eight key considerations you ought to make if you?re down with finishing your basement. They?ll help you figure out how to go about it, as well as help you decide if you really want to go about it in the first place.

No. 1: Just how much value will the basement add to your home. Chances are, a finished basement will make a ?cellar? want to offer more to buy your home. But by how much? To be worthwhile, make sure the increase in your home?s value will over-compensate what you spent to finish your basement. Talk to neighbors who have finished their basement, or do research online or with your real-estate agent to see what houses are worth in your area, with and without finished basements.

No. 2: Have a good sense how long you will be in your home after you finish the basement. Sure, a finished basement will bump up the value of your house, but you also want to be sure you will get some value yourself out of all that new space.

No. 3: Be realistic about costs and work time. Depending on your basement, finishing it could be more intensive than you first imagine. Can you really spent (or borrow) $10,000 at this time? Do you want contractors in your home for two weeks?

No. 4. I don?t need a contractor to do work I can do myself! (Oh, really?). Even handymen or women can get themselves in over their heads when it comes to major projects like finishing a basement. And don?t get us wrong. You may be capable of doing all of the necessary work. But are you able?meaning, do you have the time and energy after your 9-to-5 job, your children?s sports practices, and a few hours of sleep?

No. 5: Local laws may have something to say, too. Hiring a contractor or doing it yourself?whatever way you decide, you may have to comply with local or state codes for such construction. Again, a neighbor who?s recently done a similar home renovation could be a wealth of information, as well as municipal or state Web sites. Following such regulations may seem like a pain, but they may help you prevent real pain that comes from injuries if you carry out your project without safety codes in mind.

No. 6: Sure, it?s a good idea to finish the basement?but exactly how? Here?s the fun part. Once you determine that it will be worth it to go through with the project, now you need to figure out what sort of room you want down there. Will the theme be a spare bedroom, a playroom, work-out gym, office, home theater, etc.?

No. 7: Are you being realistic about the basement?s new theme? OK, it would be great to have a fitness room down there, but do you really have the room for the treadmill and the weights? Do you have the square footage for two couches and a 60-inch high-definition TV? Will you have the ceiling height to fit your 7-foot-tall bookshelves?

No. 8. Your basement can handle your vision of finished glory?great, now make it happen. Start shopping around for all your necessary appliances and furniture. Do your research on price and selection and get your best value. In many cases?such as with office furniture or fitness equipment?buying used is the way to go. Used stuff can be none the worse for wear, and at online classifieds or auction sites, you can more often than not–get great deals on it.

Steps 1 through 8?just like that, it?s simple to make your house that much closer to being that figurative castle, or that is, to turn your castle?s dungeon into the king?s (or queen?s) court!

Donald Lee is the public relations manager for Buysellcommunity.com. Buysellcommunity provides free classified listing services. Buy, Sell and trade: auto, computers, household items, real estate, pets and much more. For global and localized classifieds, please visit http://www.buysellcommunity.com - Free Buy & Sell Classifieds

Click for more detail

Price : $9.25

Features

  • Watch Strap Holding Block, Pin Remover, Tweezers
  • Mini Long Nose Pliers, 3 Pin Punches, Small Hammer
  • Watch Case Wrench, Watch Case Knife, Pin Pusher
  • 2 Mini Phillips Screwdrivers, 3 Precision Slotted Screw Drivers

 

Product Description

16 Watch Repair Tools. This is a new set of 16 watch repair tools. You receive: One watchband link pin remover. One watchband holder. One spring bar remover 3 Pin punches. One metal and plastic hammer. One case knife 3 slotted screwdrivers 2 Phillips screwdrivers. One case wrench. One pair of long nose pliers with side cutters. One pair of stainless steel tweezers. FindingKing works hard to update our descriptions and pictures of our merchandise. As part of a process of ongoing innovation by our suppliers, newer versions of the item shown may be shipped before we are able to complete an update. As a result there may be a slight variation in color and design.

Customer Reviews

Review date : 2008-11-09
This is a great tool, have all you need to start manipulating your watch, the lag in this item…..have not instructions manual but at this price you can’t go wrong.

Review date : 2008-11-04
I purchased this tool set to open a watch case to change the battery. I purchased the set based on the good reviews it has received. My experience is not as good unless the manufacturer is switched since the time the reviews were written. My tools were made in China and they are of very poor quality. The case opener tool bent in the process of opening the watch case and did not manage to open the case. The reason is because the tools were made of some softer metal (not at all like the metal in a Swiss army knife for example). So I am very disappointed. My watch is still not opened and I am stuck with a set of non-functional bent tools.

Review date : 2008-10-28
Good value, useful tools. Many tools for the money.
Instructions are available online. But you should
be mechanically inclined to use tools properly.

Review date : 2008-10-26
This was a great purchase and it came packaged well. I can change any battery myself now!

Review date : 2008-10-25
This tool arrived and was just what I needed. I bought it for the back opener and the link remover. Both of which worked fine. It has lots of other "gadgets" that I probably won’t use, but everything seems sturdy enough to last.

Home Improvement For The Ladies!

Posted:1 November, 2008 by admin

Your Own Homes Improvement Outline

(One for the Ladies)

Let me begin by saying what a home improvement plan will not do! I have seen this happen more than once, so I will say this now. A home improvement project, addition, upgrade, remodel, or makeover will not make up for a troubled marriage. So for those that think home improvement may save a marriage, I?m telling you now that it will add more stress and it is a poor substitute for proper counseling.

With that said, when you see a home being sold due to a divorce, take a good look at the house because you may see evidence of a great remodel job. However, the marriage still failed. The scenario above leads into other areas of home remodel, acquisition and selling points. Gentlemen, pay attention here! It is generally recognized that women are responsible for 80% of all decisions on whether or not to purchase a particular home.

So what influences the ladies in their decisions concerning home purchases and remodeling? By far the two biggest items are the kitchen and the bath. If I had to choose one or the other, I believe I would look at which area was in need of the remodel more, while at the same time looking at the costs of both options.

As for the men, what do they want? They would be happy with a large garage/workshop plus a secluded den or office to carry on with business or to retreat to the solitude of a ?cave.? Men, as we can see, really don?t spend as much time feathering the nest so as a result we see that contrary to popular belief, men really tend to follow the female?s lead.

Generally speaking, you?ll find that men don?t pay much attention to draperies, window treatments, flower boxes, state of the art appliances, Jacuzzi tubs, well-lit bathrooms, large closets or floral patterns of any kind. They often prefer brown and gray everything, with a big garage, a shed, a sprinkler system and a privacy fenced back yard for barbeques and lounging in private. Men also like low maintenance houses so they aren?t constantly being asked to fix or repair things. If left up to the men to decide, you would find that faucets, toilets, sinks, baths, floors, mirrors, cabinetry, appliances and furnishings would tend to be favored by their industrial strength qualities as opposed to beauty.

Those are general observations and many times they will not apply. However, by keeping them in mind and using the 80/20 rule, they may help in the decision making process. So now using what we know, it would be wise to slant your remodel towards the light and bright feminine side of life. It seems to make sense that if the women are the decision makers then we should let them decide on what really needs attention first!

Let?s look at the kitchen first. Can you paint or refinish the cabinetry and change the knobs and handles to get the new look? Would new Formica laminate over the old counter tops with a matching backsplash do the trick? Maybe a white ceramic sink with a new faucet will achieve the desired effect. Quite possibly you may decide to rip it all out. If that is the case, then paint the walls and consider tiling the floor also. Often times, adding some minor electrical and lighting upgrades will help transform and modernize the entire effort. Don?t forget the new built in dishwasher and plumbing as well.

Custom cabinets, if designed, built and installed by a local reputable cabinetmaker with references and a picture book of previous work done, are often very attractive in price and quality. I use craftsmen with low overhead who work on one job at a time. Often I will ask them to make, in addition to the kitchen, a base cabinet for the bathroom to match, all for one low price. When working with kitchens I always look to see if a wall can be opened up to create a pass through or bar stool counter top. This lets in more light and allows the person in the kitchen to talk with and see the people in the adjoining room. It also creates the effect of a more spacious kitchen.

The bottom line is that a well-lit, light, bright and spacious kitchen, well equipped with modern appliances, plenty of storage space and decorative tiles, paint and window treatments, will add value and appeal to any home?s remodel plan.

Next, lets look at remodeling the bathroom. Here again, we look to the feminine side as the women seem to spend more time here then the men. So with the ladies in mind concerning the upgrade, I will often bite the bullet and rip it all out, the tub being the only exception! If I can leave the tub in, the job is easier, faster and cheaper. However, if I am looking at an olive green or yellowed chipped up and rusting ceramic eyesore, than a new fiberglass insert with a sliding glass door is going on my list of items to buy at the local Home Depot.

Jet tubs are the in thing, so I won?t rule them out as a possible upgrade. This decision again is based on the female as most men don?t take candlelit bubble baths or require a pulsating massage. Walls are painted with Sherwin Williams semi-gloss paint which creates an excellent moisture barrier to the walls. With regard to walls, by adding tile or laminate half-wall wainscoting to the lower three to four feet of the wall, you?ll add a nice touch. Since you have torn out the old toilet and base cabinet, now is also the perfect time to rip up the old vinyl and put down ceramic floor tile before the new fixtures are installed. New lighting, mirrored vanity cabinets, G.F.I. electrical outlets, wallpaper borders, towel rings and bars are usually the finishing touch. Even a man can appreciate coming home to a spacious, clean, modern, functional and aesthetically pleasing kitchen and bath. One final note here: Be sure to caulk everything when you?re through. You?ll want to protect your new investment from rotting, from the inside out. Dampness and wood eating insects are your homes worst enemies.

Now with the kitchen and bath out of the way, what do you feel is next? I myself spend on average about seven hours a day in the bedroom, so I tend to go there next. Once again, the closet is of importance to the ladies so I will look to paint that bright white, upgrade the lighting and install a closet organizing system to maximize the space that is available. A tip for the guys! Put in a shoe rack for the ladies, as most of you wouldn?t even think about that little upgrade.

Once the closet is done, I?m back patching and painting the rest of the room. Another smart thing you can do is to let the female decide on what color of Sherwin Williams brand satin super paint they would like to have applied. I always make sure I get enough paint to do the ceiling as well because when you?re on your back, you will be looking at it. Once the walls and ceiling are done, the ceiling fan with light kit and dimmer switch go in. Then the baseboards are prepared for installation before the carpet goes down. Usually I paint them a shade darker than the walls and tack them to the wall about one-half inch above the floor.

Now that the paint is put away, it?s time to install the plush carpet and a dense quality pad beneath it. In order to really bring the room together you will need to take a paint swatch or chip to the carpet dealer to choose the carpet color that really sets off the walls and base board trim. As for final touches, those include mini blinds, a curtain, and decorative switch plates and receptacle covers. A solid core door represents today?s modern standards with a keyed lock set for security, so I will add that factor in too. Just add candles and you?re done!

As for the rest of the house, I will choose one-color paint and use it throughout all the remaining areas that are to be lightened and brightened. Earth tone, eggshell or tan sand colors are a neutral favorite of many, so unless you have a floor that is going to clash with it, earth tones are a safe bet. Speaking of floors, I will follow appraisal rules that tell me wood is better than carpet, except in bedrooms. And tile is better than vinyl. With that in mind, I will use tile and Pergo flooring everywhere else. Once the tile and wood are installed, I never have to replace it and maintenance is a breeze. The appraiser also looks upon wood and tile as an upgrade, so at the earliest opportunity, they are getting incorporated in my plans.

There you have it! A general Joe homeowner remodel job, but what about the infamous addition? With this consideration, you?ll have many more options to weigh, so let?s take a look at some of the pros and cons of adding square footage.

When does it make sense to add square footage?

#1. Is it physically possible, legally permissible, and financially feasible? Will the new addition serve your intended purpose to the maximum extent?

#2. Does the current floor plan, layout or design of your home allow for a smooth flowing traffic pattern in, out and through the proposed addition?

#3. Will your lot size accommodate a larger dwelling and will the neighborhood surrounding your home support the higher value that you expend?

#4. How long do you intend to stay in the house that this upgrade is planned for? Five years from now, will the addition return, dollar for dollar, the money you have spent to the sales price of the home if you sold it?

#5. Are you prepared to deal with draftsmen and plans development, contractors, building officials and permits? Will you mind living on a construction site for about 6 months? Are your finances in place with an additional 10% set aside for cost overruns? Has everyone agreed upon what this addition should look like and the purpose it will serve?

Let us say you have considered the above and would like to continue towards the improvement. From here, we should consider the economic principle of what is called progression. Example: You have a 2-bedroom, 1-bath home, located in a neighborhood of more expensive 3-bedroom, 2-bath homes. In this case you could, with more certainty, add another bedroom and bath and expect to be able to realize or achieve the value from the addition?s expense as the more expensive homes around you will tend to pull the value of your home up along with theirs.

Now the reverse is also true, so you must consider the opposite case that is called the principle of regression. That says that if you over-improve beyond the value of the homes that are surrounding you, then those lower value homes will tend to keep the value of your home in the lower price ranges. So putting it another way, try not to pass the point of diminishing returns. In essence, saying that you can only improve so much before you reach a point where, for every dollar you spend, you will receive less of that same dollar back when you sell.

A good rule of thumb to use is to try to get at least two dollars of increased value for every dollar you spend. Once you begin to approach ?break-even,? then you should consider maintaining what you have as opposed to adding to it. A simple way to say it: Don?t over-improve!

Another watchword to know is super-adequacy. That would be like putting gold faucets in a mobile home. It?s overkill and too high-end for the properties overall value, so the final decision on remodeling and additions comes down to balance and a happy medium being reached. Also, take into consideration the cost, aggravation, the net gain, the need for improvement, the improved quality of life, the suitability to all occupants taste, needs and desires and in the end the ability to receive a higher sales price.

I choose to remodel more often than add-on because it goes much faster and the profits role in quicker too. If I need more space to live in, I simply remodel the house I?m in and rent it out for top dollar, and then get an equity line to buy a bigger house! When remodeling my own home I will attempt to do everything myself, aside from building cabinets or rewiring electrical circuits. As with everything else, if I get in over my head, I will concede defeat and call in an expert to finish what I started while I learn where I went wrong by watching them finish it up.

Here are a few parting shots that you may or may not know:

Painting everything inside and out is the greatest value producing improvement that you can make on a dollar for dollar return basis. When painting, ensure you buy the absolute best paint available, as it is true that the expense of painting lays in the application of the paint not the paint itself. So if you have to apply two coats because of an inferior watered down paint then the cost just doubled in time and the added paint needed to get the job done.

This next tip alone will save you the cost of this entire book and here it is. Without naming any names, whether it be the manufacturer or the distributor of the product, there is a problem out there with what used to be considered top brand, quality paints. It has been said that some manufacturers have thinned out their paint and left their good name on, all in the name of allowing certain retailers the ability to sell hundreds of thousands of gallons a month at what appears to be a bargain price. Unfortunately, the consumer is fooled by the name and ends up coming back for more paint when they find that it takes more of the thinned out product to get complete coverage.

I, for one, as you can well see by now, am a real fan of Sherwin Williams brand, super paint. This blend is so superior in my mind to any other paint available to the little guy, that I refuse to use anything else. I have applied it to exterior walls located in the worst conditions and climates and ten years later its still as good as the day I put it on. The elasticity, color and protection are still in place with absolutely no chalking, cracking or deterioration of any kind, The same goes for interior paint as well. The coverage and wash ability are unmatched!

I also would like to say Sherwin Williams has not paid me to say one word of this. It is for your sole benefit that I harp on it to the degree that I do, as it burns me to no end to see trusting people get ripped off and not even know it!

But wait! It gets even worse. As if to add insult to injury, the retailers don?t really even shoot for the highest profit margin on the paint. They make their profit when you start buying all the tape, rollers, trays, brushes, handles, scrapers, sand paper, buckets, screens and new fangled gadgetry along with a host of other products that may be required to finish all phases of the job at hand.

Has anyone ever told you that? If you doubt it, take a viscosity cup and run the super paint through it and then do the same with the other paint. After this test, you will need no further proof of which paint is going to save you time and money in the long run.

Well, enough said. I hope you get the point on paint. Now another thing you can do to improve your home substantially is landscape it. Landscaping, if done right, can add up to 30% to the value of your home. I prefer to plant shrubbery and low maintenance hardy plants and trees of all types. A few flowers to add color and my job is done.

Back to the addition. If you decide to add a room or two, it has also been proven that you can save about 30% here too by being your own contractor. I would encourage you to get a book titled, ?How to Be Your Own Contractor,? as it will often take an entire book to give you a proper grounding on the subject. Just know this! It is entirely within your realm of ability to tackle the over site and scheduling that you would pay that 30% to the general contractor to do. If you feel up to the task, get a book and be vigilant. In the end, you will have that new addition at a significantly lower price.

Dan Auito is a dual-licensed real estate agent and appraisal assistant. Founder of a non-profit drug prevention corporation, a real estate consulting group and is the author of ?Magic Bullets Real Estate.? This 300-page power-packed book (due out in late Sept 2004 comes with a website that further supports its readers.

Please visit with the family at http://www.magicbullets.com we look forward to seeing you!

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